Louchheim Goes to Berlin: October 29–November 3

For much of the twentieth century, the words “Berlin” or “German” have practically become taboo in the American Jewish lexicon. I’ve lost count of the number of people I know who refuse to “buy German” or travel to Frankfurt, Berlin, or Bavaria. Undoubtedly, the history of the Holocaust has stained the conception of Germany in the minds of most American Jews, particularly those of older generations – and rightfully so. And although that stain can never be removed, there must be a point at which reconciliation becomes possible -- a point when we recognize that the Germany of today has made amends for the Germany of the past, that contemporary Germans were not responsible for the near extermination of European Jews and other so-called degenerates, and that Germans have replaced their belligerence with pacifism (for better or worse).

In light of this history, the German government helped fund a mission for American Jewish young professionals to visit Berlin and inadvertently consider this overarching question by exploring issues such as Germany’s relationship with the United States, Israel, its Turkish minority, anti-Semitism, and of course, the Holocaust to name just a few. The American Jewish Committee received a grant to coordinate the mission, and I could think of no other organization better suited for the task.

That is, following the end of World War II, no other American Jewish organization has had a stronger presence in Germany than the AJC. At a time when much of the world was coping with the war’s destruction and the atrocities committed, the AJC took a proactive step by working with leaders of the American occupation to support denazification. Its leadership also took a stance in contrast to many other American Jewish organizations in 1991 by supporting the reunification of Germany. And most recently in 1998, the AJC was the first of such organizations to open a permanent office in Germany.

As for me, when I was selected to participate on this mission, there was much more that factored in my decision to go. Perhaps because my generation is further removed from the Holocaust than that of my grandparents, or parents even, I associated Berlin as much with its dark past as I did with the Berlin Airlift, Checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin Wall, opera, modern art, and hipster culture. Going into the trip, I knew that there were contemporary developments that would trouble me – rising anti-Americanism, anti-Semitism, neo-Nazis, etc. – but they only reinforced my desire visit Germany and learn the truth about these challenges and how the people and government are addressing them.

In the end, the trip did not fundamentally alter my perspective on Germany. It most certainly added nuance and context to issues with which I was already familiar, and exposed me to challenges (such as the integration of its Turkish minority) of which I was not yet aware. I must say that Germany has done a remarkable job in preserving the Holocaust’s memory and taking necessary political steps to ensure that it doesn’t happen again on German soil. Whether the German government does more to protect Jews living in Israel from a nuclear Iran or a suicidal, homicidal Palestine is uncertain and not entirely promising.

Exploring Berlin, however, was a new experience and an absolute adventure. I can think of no better words to describe it than “humbled dignity,” or perhaps, “dignified humility.” No building better represents that theme than the seat of their parliament, the Reichstag (which I will discuss in greater detail). And I I have yet to visit a city that better displays the glory and horror of its past. And yet the cranes that dot the skyline point to an optimistic and ambitious future. So much – from its buildings and monuments to its artwork and nightlife and politics– suggests that the city yearns for modernity. And its vibrant and engaging youth seem determined enough to see that vision through to fruition.

The trip would not have been as enlightening or enjoyable without the staff from the AJC Berlin Office. In fact, the trip would not have happened at all without their thoughtful grant application and careful planning. My heartfelt thanks go out to Jardena Lande, Anja Spiller, and David Kipp. They all went well beyond the call of duty to create a truly memorable experience, and I am grateful to count them all as dear friends. And as memories fade, I hope that our friendships grow stronger.

Prost!